Capital of Umbria and home to a prestigious university, Perugia’s centro storico tumbles down the slopes to unattractive modern suburbs. Negotiate these and use the escalators to reach the centre, where the broad Corso Vanucci, lined with classy shops, runs to Piazza IV Novembre, home to the Duomo and the exquisite 13th-century Fontana Maggiore, work of the Pisano family. Down the Corso too, you’ll find the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, a treasure house of Umbrian art, characterised by its light and colour; Pinturrichio, Perugino and Raphael were all born in the region. There are more paintings by Umbria’s super star Perugino in the Collegio del Cambio, once the HQ of Perugia’s bankers. From here, narrow streets lead down the hill to churches and museums, notably San Severo, Sant’Angelo, San Pietro and San Domenico, now housing the Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell’Umbria.